Strada non dritto | Indirect path

Choosing one path implies giving up the other. Those who want to go anywhere get nowhere.

Mario Furlan, Italian life coach

As I munched away on my lunch plate of various, delicious cold Italian vegetables, I noted the Philosophy Calendar atop the display case. The word 'Strada' (road/path) stood out for me -- I suppose just because I am on the road. I should have paid attention to the full meaning of the quotation.

Had I paid attention, it may have foretold potential challenges as I ventured onto a local bus headed into the countryside in search of a vineyard. I had some of idea of where I was heading but thought it wise to enlist the help of the bus driver to ensure I got off at the right stop. 

Unfortunately, his help left me a good five km beyond where I should be. Being somewhat at a loss as to what I should do, I went into the bar beside the bus stop and in very poor Italian explained I had a "small problem". A kind gentleman having lunch at the bar set me on the right path to catch the next bus heading in the opposite direction. I ran into him two more times on Bus 21. I was most fortunate to happen upon someone who knew the bus route firsthand (may I say, unlike the bus driver?). 

With this help, I arrived at the correct stop, at this nondescript corner with a small sign pointing me in the direction of the Masi vineyard where I had booked a tour. Yes, it does appear to be in the middle of nowhere.

Nevertheless, the adventure opened up beautiful landscapes full of grapes, ancient residences and a lot of light industrial construction along the route.

And the tour introducing Masi's wine-making process and the tasting session were well worth the adventure.

My non-straight path did in the end lead to the vineyard owned by Dante's descendants (only in Italy!). Dropping the great philosopher's name reminds me that I was walking through an Inferno of 42C today. Our guide mentioned that the extreme heat and drought conditions mean that the grapes might be harvested in two weeks time . . . much earlier than normal.

Tomorrow, I think I will keep my feet planted in Verona. Buona notte!

Lentamente, lentamente | Slowly, slowly

Smile, breathe and go slowly

Thich Nhat Hanh

My motto for the day has been "slowly, slowly." Solar radiation bounced upwards into my face off the stone pavement below my feet as I left the hotel at 9:30am. Before noon, temperatures hit 40C, so heat-survival-protocols were enacted. 

I thought it was smart choosing to visit an art museum on a hot day because art museums need to be temperature controlled and temperature control means air conditioning. Right? Wrong. Temperature control in the Castelvecchio Museum means open windows and a few standing fans for the comfort of the guards.

Castelvecchio (Old Castle) was built by the 'Medicis' of Verona, the Scaligeri family, in c. 1350 as a residence and fortress. The Venetians made it their citadel when they took control of Verona in the late 1700s. Then Napoleon's troops used it as a barracks, who were followed by the Austrians who used it as an arsenal. Each made changes to the old castle but it obviously had 'good bones'. In the 1960s, Italy's renowned architect Carlo Scarpa transformed those bones into a wonderful (albeit non-air conditioned) art museum.

Thankfully, and surprisingly, the original frescoed walls from the Scaligieri palace survived in one of the rooms.

The museum's collection of sculpture and paintings is amazing. It may not be the Uffizi but it's a real treat. I came upon an early painting by Pisanello (refer to yesterday's post). I am lucky to see the delightful Madonna of the Quail because it was stolen from the museum in 2015. Inside job, I'm told. Thankfully, police recovered it two years later.

My very special evening started with the degustation menu at Enoteca Segreta. (Click on their logo at the top of the website for some food porn.) The chef's menu with 'rare' wines was outstanding. If you are ever in Verona, seek out the secret wine cellar.

The fabulous meal was the perfect prelude to the spectacular staging (and singing) of Puccini's opera Turnadot under the stars in Verona's Roman amphitheater ("Arena").

I cannot remember the last time I saw midnight. Being out at midnight in Italy feels so good! Especially walking with a nightcap gelato in hand. :-)

Now it is going on 1:00am so I will say "Buona notte" and see you "a domani".

Vedere, Ascoltare, Imparare | To see, to listen, to learn

If you make listening and observation your occupation, you will gain much more than you can by talk.

Robert Baden-Powell

I was surprised to come upon modern sculpture within a fourteenth century church. And I was also surprised that I was so moved by it. Created in 2009 by Hermann Josef Runggaldier, this statue of the Annunciation graces the upper church of St. Fermo. The simplicity of his captured expressions resonated with me as did his intention to present Mary as a "woman of listening". I walked away vowing to listen more.

Another exquisite Annunciation appears in the same church: this one is the first signed and dated work (1426) by Pisanello, an artist of high esteem in the courts of Venice, the Vatican, Milan and Naples (as well as Verona, it would seem).

That my Dad's hand-me-down camera could capture this detail of the Brenzoni Mausoleum (upper right corner) is almost as impressive as the art. Thanks, Dad! :-)

Earlier in the morning, I visited the basilica dedicated to Verona's patron saint, San Zeno. In this stunning Romanesque church you can see multiple layers of frescos painted over one another. I guess it is a common desire to redecorate every hundred years -- even if your walls are covered with masterpieces.

Also fascinating was the graffiti carved into the coloured wall plaster by supplicants seeking divine help.

Following a day of visual delights, my evening found me immersed in the culinary arts of pasta-making inside a lovely old palazzo with charming Valli as our patient teacher of a class of four. There is fresh tagliatelle in my future. :-)

Sono qui | I am here

There are no strangers here. Only friends you haven't yet met.

William Butler Yeats

After plane, train and bus trips, the masked traveller arrived in Verona.

After checking in, I happened upon my first exquisite gelato under a renaissance arcade. Sicilian almond topped by caffe. Delicious!

With my mission to get my cell phone connected to an Italian provider (a not-so-straight-forward feat), I treated myself to my first apperitivo in the Piazza dei Signori. All the cares of the day's travel and technology challenges melted away.

Returning 'home', I meandered past the same arcade with the gelato. Such a lovely first evening.

Now, after re-learning how to post a blog, I am ready for a good night's sleep.

Perhaps I will dream of more adventures tomorrow!

Sexy Veg

He draws asparagus and cabbages, but he's obsessed with artichokes. He draws them more than any other vegetable. Why artichokes?"

George drained his glass. "The artichoke is a sexy beast. Thorns to cut you, leaves to peel, lighter and lighter as you strip away the outer layers, until you reach the soft heart's core.

Allegra Goodman, American author, in The Cookbook Collector (2010)

Last night presented an opportunity for a culinary adventure. The beauty of the artichokes called out to me across the aisle in the grocery store: "Take me home." 

This first attempt involved steaming. A subsequent adventure is planned for the grill. I love these adventures!

Mellowing

Autumn's the mellow time.

William Allingham, Irish poet (1834-1889)

Looking into the seemingly endless depths of the birds' pool is intoxicatingly mellowing.

Home Schooling 2

How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?

Charles de Gaulle, French army officer and President (1890–1970)

While in de Gaulle's time France may have had 246 cheeses, imagine Marcon's current challenge to govern as we learned that there are more than 1500 nowadays. The 3 Winos relish the diversity!  

 

Our teacher for Saturday's Context's Zoom class "From Camembert to Chevre: An Exploration of French Cheese", Jennifer, is on a mission to taste each and every one of them. She introduced to us the seven families of French cheeses and taught to taste first with our noses. 

 

Once again our local cheese shop, Mickey Mcguire's delivered the tasty samples direct to our door -- how wonderful is that! We revisited the Brie de Meaux, Comte and Roquefort from last week and were introduced to Poitou Chevre and P'tit Basque, an aged sheep milk cheese. 

Although COVID curdled our travel plans, we are enjoying tastes of France throughout the pandemic.

S-I-L cooked up Julie Child's coq au vin. Delicious! What could be more delectable than coq au vin by the fire?! Life is good.

à votre santé!