Venice, the most touristy place in the world, is still just completely magic to me.
Frances Mayes, American author
Traffic filled the Grand Canal as we headed to Piazza San Marco after breakfast.
Similarly, the confluence of various forms of naval vehicles beside our vaporetto stop as we awaited our return 'bus' left us appreciating the absence of canal rage. Somehow, everything works out.
Our first stop was the palace of the Venetian ruler, the Doge. Venetians were so concerned that their leader might be corrupted by outside influence that he and his family pretty much lived under constant watch -- but what a view they enjoyed!
Every room of this home/seat of government is designed to impress. The might of Venice and her divine right to rule the world was messaged on every surface.
For example, on the wall behind the Doge's throne in Grand Senate Chamber, Tintoretto painted Christ surrounded by a host of some five hundred saints supporting the power of the Doge and the Senate. An incredible work of art.
On the other side of the golden ducat, however, was the system of denouncing fellow citizens anonymously with a slip of paper inscribed a name and an accusation.
Those accused walked this hallway within the Bridge of Sighs that leads from the hall of 'justice' into the prison.
We were lucky -- we got out. At the conclusion of our tour of the Doge's Palace, we enjoyed the Doge's hospitality of a coffee and chocolate croissant with a view.
Regrettably, photographs are no longer allowed inside the Basilica of San Marco, so I can only share a view of the multiple domes, one of the many Eastern influences in Venetian architecture resulting from its trading empire.
A Venetian glass maker performed an artistic miracle with sand and extreme heat, creating a beautiful decanter before our eyes in just a few minutes.
Following my nose, I zigged and zagged through Venice's alley's and found the little restaurant that I have visited on my previous two trips here over twenty years ago. Good memories hold fast. For our leisurely lunch, we enjoyed fish soup, fish lasagna and grandma's gnocchi.
The food is delicious and the view from the window, past the flower pots, of gondolas passing by adds to the dreaminess of their tiramisu.
This evening we walked out to the Canal to see the sculpture that it part of the Venice Biennale -- a commentary on Venice's plight as it sinks and the water raises.
We went out to enjoy a Venetian tradition of appertivo. I didn't know that there was a wine named after me. It's a nice white.
We stood in the alley and enjoyed our vino and snacks, known as cicchetti.
This is the beautiful display at our second stop of cichetti-hopping.
We ended our evening and our trip with a gondola ride. Yes, it is expensive, but it is something that one must experience -- especially at night. Gliding through the quiet back canals is magical. Tomorrow marks the beginning of our trek home. I am sad to be departing bella Italia but I am taking with me so many new warm memories.
Arrivederci.
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